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View from my dining room table today, November 12 |
Thursday, November 6, 2014:
We have no heat in this little apartment on Avenida Ramon
Munita. From my third floor window I look out across a neighborhood of small two-story casas,
the stove pipes above their metal roofs spewing smoke that lays down flat in
the cold northwest wind. I'm so jealous of their
fires! I should have gone along with
Richard down to the boat this morning, where he’s right now stoking Abrazo’s
wood stove.
Instead I chose to do some cleaning and sorting here in the
new nest, hopeful that Don Pedro will call me back soon with news that he’s
bringing us a heater. We haven’t been
able to figure out how to light the stove, but pots of hot tea from the gas
burners sustain me. Small challenges
continue. The apartment has no internet,
and Don Pedro suggested a USB modem. But the one we bought at Falabella … well …
after hours of puzzling with it, both at home and back at the tech desk where
we bought it, the vendor agreed it was a bad piece of equipment. By then I had no patience left for trying
another unit. Maybe tomorrow.
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Los colores de mi vida. Note the black droid lower right by the stool! |
Friday, November 7
Last night Don Pedro came up to see us, with his wife Erica
and their two young teens, Cristobal and Catalina. The chico carried
the black metal cube with wheels that is my new best friend: an electric heater. Richard had figured out how to light the gas
oven by then, so we were not totally frigid; and with all those bodies in the
apartment, the windows were soon streaming with condensed vapors.
Once the newly painted walls, newly covered floors and newly
tiled bathroom tub surround had been admired by Erica, I asked my remaining
questions (“What does this knob do?” etc.).
When Don Pedro advised us that the cost of electricity is very high, I
feared he wanted to raise the rent already, but we assured him we would only
use the heater sparingly. Also, Erica
agreed to investigate having internet activated in the apartment. Then we sat around to chat for a few
minutes.
Catalina, had a question for me, her mother said.
“Do you have daughters or sons?” the chica asked. At first I
couldn’t make out her pronunciation of “daughters”… which embarrassed HER, of
course. Disculpa me! We
recovered. They all laughed when I
explained that the boat has been our hija
y hijo.
Both kids enjoyed the oportunidad to show off their English
in front of their parents. They study it
in their schools. Cristobal claims he
has learned most from “the You Tubes.”
Catalina likes American music, and says “English is awesome.” I’m glad.
Our Angelmo friend complains that English has such an ugly sound
compared to Spanish.
While we chatted, Don Pedro looked through our little
picture book
about the construction of the boat, and proclaimed our boat un tesoro.
Then he rounded up his own gang of treasures and left us to enjoy
the electric warmth of our new droid.
Saturday, November 8
Condominio Ramon Munita is about the same distance from the
Mercado Presidente Ibañez as was our apartment in Los Almendros last year, but
last year we had to walk UP a steep hill to get to the market. This year we actually live on a bench a bit
higher than the market, so the uphill hike, nowhere near as steep, is on the
way home.
We find the Saturday morning market just as colorful,
crowded, and fresh as we remembered … see pics in last year’s blog "Saturday Morning Market" 12-9-13.
The vendor with the gold tooth is happy to see us again, the
ancient blind man still plays his accordion, layers of fresh fish and mounds of
shellfish fill the tables, and the supplies of fresh-cut lettuce and parsley
are still cheaper than the grocery store.
With laden back-packs we hike home, where Richard begins the ritual of
creating his spaghetti sauce. Teresita is
coming for a 1:30 almuerzo. She already loves R’s spaghetti.
I bought a bouquet of flowers (the purple-white
vallica) at the market, and Tere brings
a pretty bunch of
rododendro fucsia from her home.
It’s
Chilean tradition, she says, on your first visit to a person’s home, to bring
flowers. When Tere sees that we have a
fine view of Volcan Calbuco from the dining table (when the clouds lift, that
is), she approves our living arrangements, despite the fact we have “
no natura” … no trees or gardens around the building.
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Here's the view without benefit of telephoto |
We’re paying around $600/month … like last year… but this
time the gas, electric, and
gastos
are included. The building is not so
elegant as
Los Almendros. We’re farther from the center of town. It’s easy enough to walk down, when we have
time and the weather permits, and catch the Costanera bus to the marina. But on the return we usually look for a collective
to get us back up the hills: up to the
level of the Jumbo grocery store, near where we lived last year … up again to
the level of Avenida Presidente Ibañez … then up again to the top of Av.
Sargento Silva. You can see in the photo above that there’s yet another terrace of houses
above us.
Wednesday, November 12
The man from Moviestar came today so we are connected for internet and wi-fi, too. Yay! Hope all your connections are operating well, and that the news you find is mostly good.